Health, Sports & Psychology
The history of surfing
...open up new enjoyment. The long boards of the ’60s were mainly made of balsa wood; often over 12 feet in length and about 2½ feet wide, they were pretty heavy (though not as heavy as the older Hawaiian boards which were made from local hardwood). It took a strong man (and surfers in the ’60s were predominantly men) to carry them across the sand and into the water....